Tuesday 15 November 2016

Testing for One Thimble Ezine – Vol 13 and my Invisible Zip Tutorial

Only having discovered the amazing world of PDF patterns a couple years ago, I was pleased when I found that there was also an online version of sewing magazines! So let me explain about One Thimble – the online sewing mag.
Packed full of useful tips, One Thimble also boasts a host of amazing patterns in each issue. At only $25(au), which includes usually at least 10 PDF patterns, this is a bargain of massive proportions!


Orbis Skinny Harems – pattern by Sofilantjes.

I was lucky enough to test not just one but TWO patterns that are included in Vol. 13 of One Thimble. I’m starting with the Orbis skinny harem pants (or jogging shorts.) This pattern is by Dutch designer, Sofilantjes.

The pattern includes sizes 12months to 14 childrens. It is a uni-sex pattern and suits boys & girls alike. The slim fit makes them perfect for sport or high energy activities or even just for weekend wear.
The Orbis pants have beautiful rounded, functional pockets that wrap-around front to back.

The waist band is elasticised and the pattern includes instructions on how to add a drawstring. You may choose to use buttonholes or grommets for your drawstring. As I hadn’t tried grommets before, I decided I should test my skills and give them a go!

I purchased a tool and the grommets from my local sewing shop and all that was required was a hammer to fix the grommets. I love the professional finish the grommets give the pants and highly recommend giving them a try!
These pants can be full length or knee length, I opted for full length and used ribbing for my cuffs, pocket binding and waistband.

The Orbis pants also have a faux feature fly, which you could decorate with buttons or snaps – I didn’t love my fly enough to feature it! There were many other lovely tester flies.... I just wasn't happy mine!   (  *) – (  *)
To see more from the other testers, please visit these wonderful blogs....
I had been interested in Sofilantjes patterns for some time, so I’m so glad I was able to try the Orbis pants! If you have been eyeing off Sofilantjes patterns too, this is the perfect opportunity! I love the pattern and something very different from my usual sews!

Raglan Party Dress – Pattern by Designs by Call Ajaire

Having tested for Ajaire previously, I knew this dress was going to be amazing! I wasn’t disappointed!
The Raglan Party Dress features a skirt with beautiful wide pleats, a feature cut bodice, raglan sleeves and an invisible zip. I will also include a mini tutorial on how to install an invisible zip! Once you go invisible, you’ll never go back!

The dress pattern includes sizes newborn to 12 girls.   

Invisible zip & gold pleather trim
I would rate the pattern as in intermediate sew. The trickiest step is the invisible zip, however the pleats require a level of preciseness.
My favourite part of this dress is those amazing pleats. Colour block to make your fabrics pop!

I made three dresses over the testing period. Each different and fun! There are 3 different views, A, B & C. I made two A's and the above dress is view B. (View C is pleated with no colour blocking.)

Make your dress fancy, sporty, or every-day neat.

I know... very grubby knees.... toddlers and dirt! Like coffee & chocolate - can't have one without the other!
I added a faux gold pleather belt to my Christmas Raglan party dress and a simple sash to my sporty “Australia Day” style raglan! Make the pattern your own!!

I had such fun sewing these dresses and I know you will too!! You can't beat Ajaire's patterns for details on fit and clear, well illustrated instructions!
The Raglan dress by Call Ajaire had some amazing testers who have also blogged.... if you would like to see more, please visit their blogs


Invisible Zip Tutorial

Do not be afraid of the invisible zip! I prefer them over regular dress zips. They create a seamless finish, while being very functional.
You may use the Raglan dress or any garment really, but we will be assuming you have sewn the neckline (and sleeves if applicable) on the bodice. It is important to leave approx 1 inch (2.5cm) un-sewn on each side of the back neckline.

Now place your invisible zip (and do make sure your purchase an invisible zipper), right side of zip to right side of main bodice. DO NOT CATCH YOUR BODICE LINING. I like to sew the right hand side of the zipper first. So the right hand side of the zipper needs to be pinned to the LEFT hand side of the bodice.

With your invisible zip foot in your machine (you can use a regular zip foot if you are a confident sewer and don’t have an invisible zip foot.) You will need to unzip the zipper and sew as CLOSE AS YOU CAN to the zipper teeth – hold them away carefully so you can do this.

Once you've sewn down your first side, if you turn it over and zip it up, it *should* look like this.

From the inside of your dress, the zipper should look like the above picture.

Repeat for the opposite side – the zipper will look a little twisted at the bottom, however, it is important that you sew that second side with the RIGHT side of the zipper facing the RIGHT side of the bodice! Please also note, be careful to line up the bodice joins at this point! It does not matter if the zip over hangs unevenly at the top! I like to do up my zipper & mark with a washable marker the bodice line, then unzip and pin, using the join as my first pin.

Make sure you mark your second zipper where it should line up at the bodice-skirt line

Once sewn, your zipper should zip up & down with ease - showing no zipper teeth/edge.

If you pinned your zipper on correctly, the two bodice pieces should line up perfectly.

Next is the lining – the easy part! Turn your bodice lining over the right side of the bodice – so the right side of the lining and the right side of the bodice are facing.

Next, using the zipper foot, stitch the bodice lining to the zipper. There is no need to be as close to the zipper teeth as with the main – you will need to be able to open your zipper after all!!

You will likely have zipper hanging out below the bodice lining – no need to stress over this!
Exchange your zip foot for your regular machine foot. Using the seam allowance, sew up your bodice neckline (where you left your gap to insert your zip.)

Trim the corners so your dress will come out crisply when turning the right side. Turn the right side.

Invisible zip inserted!!

Inside view of invisible zip now completely sewn in
Finish your zip sewing the remainder of the skirt together at the back. Be careful to move the un-sewn zip tail out of the way and line your stitching up with your zipper stitching. I like to tack that “loose” remaining zip down to the internal seams, but you could also trim & zig-zag or sew up a zipper tail pocket/cover.

Sew bodice lining to dress & hem and your done!

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