Only having discovered the amazing world of PDF patterns a
couple years ago, I was pleased when I found that there was also an online
version of sewing magazines! So let me explain about One Thimble – the online
sewing mag.
Packed full of useful tips, One Thimble also boasts a host
of amazing patterns in each issue. At only $25(au), which includes usually at least
10 PDF patterns, this is a bargain of massive proportions!
Orbis Skinny Harems – pattern by Sofilantjes.
I was lucky enough to test not just one but TWO patterns
that are included in Vol. 13 of One Thimble. I’m starting with the Orbis skinny
harem pants (or jogging shorts.) This pattern is by Dutch designer, Sofilantjes.
The pattern includes sizes 12months to 14 childrens. It is a
uni-sex pattern and suits boys & girls alike. The slim fit makes them
perfect for sport or high energy activities or even just for weekend wear.
The Orbis pants have beautiful rounded, functional pockets
that wrap-around front to back.
The waist band is elasticised and the pattern includes
instructions on how to add a drawstring. You may choose to use buttonholes or
grommets for your drawstring. As I hadn’t tried grommets before, I decided I
should test my skills and give them a go!
I purchased a tool and the grommets from my local sewing
shop and all that was required was a hammer to fix the grommets. I love the
professional finish the grommets give the pants and highly recommend giving
them a try!
These pants can be full length or knee length, I opted for
full length and used ribbing for my cuffs, pocket binding and waistband.
The Orbis pants also have a faux feature fly, which you
could decorate with buttons or snaps – I didn’t love my fly enough to feature it! There were many other lovely tester flies.... I just wasn't happy mine! ( *) – ( *)
To see more from the other testers, please visit these wonderful blogs....
I had been interested in Sofilantjes patterns for some time,
so I’m so glad I was able to try the Orbis pants! If you have been eyeing off
Sofilantjes patterns too, this is the perfect opportunity! I love the pattern
and something very different from my usual sews!
Raglan Party Dress – Pattern by Designs by Call Ajaire
Having tested for Ajaire previously, I knew this dress was
going to be amazing! I wasn’t disappointed!
The Raglan Party Dress features a skirt with beautiful wide
pleats, a feature cut bodice, raglan sleeves and an invisible zip. I will also
include a mini tutorial on how to install an invisible zip! Once you go
invisible, you’ll never go back!
The dress pattern includes sizes newborn to 12 girls.
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| Invisible zip & gold pleather trim |
I would rate the pattern as in intermediate sew. The
trickiest step is the invisible zip, however the pleats require a level of
preciseness.
My favourite part of this dress is those amazing pleats.
Colour block to make your fabrics pop!
I made three dresses over the testing period. Each different
and fun! There are 3 different views, A, B & C. I made two A's and the above dress is view B. (View C is pleated with no colour blocking.)
Make your dress fancy, sporty, or every-day neat.
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| I know... very grubby knees.... toddlers and dirt! Like coffee & chocolate - can't have one without the other! |
I added a faux gold pleather belt to my Christmas Raglan
party dress and a simple sash to my sporty “Australia Day” style raglan! Make
the pattern your own!!
I had such fun sewing these dresses and I know you will too!! You can't beat Ajaire's patterns for details on fit and clear, well illustrated instructions!
The Raglan dress by Call Ajaire had some amazing testers who have also blogged.... if you would like to see more, please visit their blogs
Invisible Zip Tutorial
Do not be afraid of the invisible zip! I prefer them over
regular dress zips. They create a seamless finish, while being very functional.
You may use the Raglan dress or any garment really, but we will be assuming you have sewn the neckline (and sleeves if applicable) on the bodice. It is important to leave approx 1 inch (2.5cm) un-sewn on each side of the back neckline.
Now place your invisible zip (and do make sure your purchase an invisible zipper), right side of zip to right side of main bodice. DO NOT CATCH YOUR BODICE LINING. I like to sew the right hand side of the zipper first. So the right hand side of the zipper needs to be pinned to the LEFT hand side of the bodice.
With your invisible zip foot in your machine (you can use a
regular zip foot if you are a confident sewer and don’t have an invisible zip
foot.) You will need to unzip the zipper and sew as CLOSE AS
YOU CAN to the zipper teeth – hold them away carefully so you can do this.
Once you've sewn down your first side, if you turn it over and zip it up, it *should* look like this.
From the inside of your dress, the zipper should look like the above picture.
Repeat for the opposite side – the zipper will look a little
twisted at the bottom, however, it is important that you sew that second side
with the RIGHT side of the zipper facing the RIGHT side of the bodice! Please
also note, be careful to line up the bodice joins at this point! It does not
matter if the zip over hangs unevenly at the top! I like to do up my zipper
& mark with a washable marker the bodice line, then unzip and pin, using
the join as my first pin.
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| Make sure you mark your second zipper where it should line up at the bodice-skirt line |
Once sewn, your zipper should zip up & down with ease - showing no zipper teeth/edge.
If you pinned your zipper on correctly, the two bodice pieces should line up perfectly.
Next is the lining – the easy part! Turn your bodice lining
over the right side of the bodice – so the right side of the lining and the
right side of the bodice are facing.
Next, using the zipper foot, stitch the bodice lining to the
zipper. There is no need to be as close to the zipper teeth as with the main –
you will need to be able to open your zipper after all!!
You will likely have zipper hanging out below the bodice lining – no need to stress over this!
Exchange your zip foot for your regular machine foot. Using the seam allowance, sew up your bodice neckline (where you left your gap to insert your zip.)
Trim the corners so your dress will come out crisply when
turning the right side. Turn the right side.
Invisible zip inserted!!
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| Inside view of invisible zip now completely sewn in |
Finish your zip sewing the remainder of the skirt together
at the back. Be careful to move the un-sewn zip tail out of the way and line
your stitching up with your zipper stitching. I like to tack that “loose”
remaining zip down to the internal seams, but you could also trim & zig-zag
or sew up a zipper tail pocket/cover.
Sew bodice lining to dress & hem and your done!
