Monday 29 July 2019

Sanamu Romper Hack - PDF pattern by Sansahash


Greetings sewing friend! Welcome to my sewing space! Today I am sharing Sansahash's latest pattern, the Sanamu jumpsuit/dress. In todays blog I am firstly going to share my capri version of the Sanamu, THEN, share exactly how I made the tie-back hack.


Sanamu works best in lightweight, woven fabrics. My version is sewn in a cotton-feel polyester with in-built tassel trim (but you can easily add your own trims to replicate this look.) 


The sides are lace-up. You can use your button-hole feature on your sewing machine or insert eyelets (for those who like to hammer while they sew!) The sides allow some give when dressing or dashing to the loo if wearing a jumpsuit version. Although, I prefer the ease of tie-up straps, hence my modification! 

Tie-up back modification shown here


Sizes included in the pattern are 6 month to 12 years approximately. My version is a 2 width (yes she's slim!) By size 6 height. Do measure your intended wearing! Determining correct fit is vital with this pattern, measure twice, cut once as the saying goes.  


I would rate this pattern as an intermediate to advanced sew. The instructions are easy enough for a beginner to follow, however this isn't a quick one, so take your time.


Like all Sansahash patterns, the pattern pieces are layered, which makes grading a breeze! (Even when grading between a size 2 and 6!)

Now what you've been waiting for, follow on for my tie-back hack tutorial. You will need the full Sanamu pattern to follow along, so make sure you pick it up HERE (also available in Dutch and French.)



Tie Back Hack Tutorial 

What you will need:

Cut x 2 shoulder binding pieces with an extra 12.5" added to the suggested cutting chart length

Cut x 1 back loop, suggested size 1 @ 1.5" x 3"

Cut x 2 ruffles (if using) as per cutting chart


Press loop, long edges facing with WS together. Open up and press each long edge so it meets the centre pressing line you just made, press in half again (as per binding instruction included in the Sanamu tutorial.) Stitch long edge of loop piece.




Fold loop in half. Find the centre of your back bodice piece and stitch down your loop internally, with the raw edges of the loop and back bodice aligning. This step is done BEFORE adding your back bodice binding. This way the raw edges will be fully enclosed with the bodice binding.



Press strap bindings as per the tutorial, although at the end of each strap, press up 1/4", tucking this fold into the long edges. 


For strap ruffles, prepare as per tutorial with the exception of pressing up one short edge 1/4" and then 1/4" again. Repeat for second strap ruffle.



Stitch down one short and one long edge of each ruffle. Gather as per Sanamu tutorial.


Measure down and mark/pin each strap binding piece at the original suggested strap length. Gather strap ruffles to the length and sew in as per original tutorial, however, continuing sewing the entire length of the strap binding.


Add in straps to the FRONT bodice ONLY - as per the Sanamu tutorial. Then to tie, thread each strap through the back loop and tie.

Ta-dah! You now have a tie-back Sanamu! 




Please don't forget to share your Sanamu's with me! Post to the Sansahash Instragram or Facebook group page and tag me on IG, "soulfedonthread11". 

Happy sewing!

~Zoe~

Monday 3 June 2019

Hooray, hooray, it's Soray! PDF Pattern by Sansahash


Welcome fellow sewist!! I'm very excited to share with you Sansahash's lastest pattern, Soray.

Please make sure you scroll all the way to the bottom to find out how you can WIN a copy of this amazing pattern!



Soray is a girls dress pattern, designed for lightweight woven fabrics. The PDF pattern includes sizes 6 months to 12 years (approximately.) 


This is my maxi dress version, although the pattern includes vintage dress length and top length options. Scroll down to see my dress length version.


My maxi Soray is sewn in a cotton-feel polyester. Think very fine, muslin cotton (silky soft and delightful for summer weather.) 


I did do ONE mod for this maxi, which was to cut the skirt WOF (width of fabric), just to make it a little more full (as I mentioned, the fabric was very fine.)

Fierce! Not just a princess!


This version of Soray is sewn in rayon. I serged (overlocked) the flutters on this one.


I just adore the cascading flutters that run down the back. The criss-cross elastic also ensures a perfect fitting bodice. 


If you would like to WIN a copy of Soray (I get to giveaway one copy on behalf of Sansahash! How amazing is that!! Thanks Mgeni!) Just head on over and like Sansahash on Instagram or Facebook and join the Facebook fan group (plus there's an extra discount code waiting there for you!) Don't forget to comment here or on my IG to say you've entered!

Too easy!! Winner will be announced within the week. 




One more thing. . . Soray is an intermediate sew. The instructions are detailed, however, there are a couple of steps that can be tricky.

First up, check out how to do a burrito roll HERE.

Second, mark those elastic insert gaps well . . . you don't want miss-matched straps!

Third, the back elastic bit is tricky to grasp the first time. So here's what it looks like inside my dress. I suggest overlocking the tops of the skirt BEFORE gathering.

Next up, fold down and pin the back casing. After you insert and sew in the elastic using a lightening bolt or small zig-zag stitch, snip the casing close to your zig-zag - now you can fold up the rest of your skirt hem so it can be encased into the bodice. 


I hope this was helpful. Enjoy sewing up Soray, she surely is a show-stopper!!


Happy sewing! 

~Zoe~

Saturday 27 April 2019

Project Run and Play Farmers Market IG Competition


Hello there! Welcome to my little sew and share space. Today I'm sharing with you a special selection of photos that feature two wonderful patterns from Project Run and Play 2019, Farmers Market capsule wardrobe collection! 


I had the pleasure of testing two different patterns (from Audrey Fixation and Duchess & Hare) that were included in the capsule collection. . . But I really wanted to enter into the "Sewing Challenge." 

So here are two other patterns that are part of this wonderful collection that I'm putting forward for judging!

The Caraway Cardigan by Delia Creates

and

Seed (dress/romper/shorts/trouser) pattern by SewPony

Caraway



I wanted to use fabric I already had in my stash (yes, mine is getting out of hand!) At the same time I wanted fabrics that my fussy 5 year old would like and want to wear.


The Caraway cardi is sewn in an acrylic/cotton blend knit fabric (a nightmare to sew with to be honest! So stretchy and rather unstable once cut.) However, it made for a beautiful relaxed, weekend style cardi that I know she will wear. Plus white goes with everything.


We both love the Caraway Cardigan 


My little Miss only needed a 2T for the width (and a 5 for height.) I appreciated the layers option when printing this pattern too. I look forward to sewing other versions of this pattern.


Seed



I'm already a big Sewpony fan, so choosing to sew up Seed was an easy choice!

I added a ribbon bow to the back - because who can resist a bow?! (Not me!)


While I don't usually choose snaps over buttons, I did want to make this romper child friendly. Miss A can easily pop these open for bathroom breaks (kind of a thing when you're wearing a romper - no matter the age!)

POCKETS!! Need I say more. . . 




This fabric and these colours where 100% with my child's preferences in mind, yes, I'm sure a stylish Art Gallery print might have been more swanky . . . but I sew for my girl and I want her to love what I make. . .and this romper got the thumbs up!


Thanks for visiting!

Happy sewing and see you next time.

~ Zoe ~




Saturday 2 March 2019

Double Delight with Rebecca Page Patterns


Hello there! Welcome to my stop on the "Double Duty" Rebecca Page blog tour! Our brief for this tour was to sew up an original pattern all vanilla like......then..... turn it into something different or alter for a different purpose. 

It didn't take me long to settle on Monte Carlo. I love both the women's and children's options and I've sewn many for both my daughter and myself. With the weather in sunny Western Australia being so, well, sunny, it seemed appropriate to repurpose Monte Carlo as a bathing top!

Oh and before I go on a tangent, let me just say, there are PRIZES up for grabs on this tour!! So make sure you scroll to the bottom for all the deets.  

Original Monte Carlo  



For my original Monte Carlo, I opted for the tunic length top, with a ruffle trim. The women's version comes with both the thin and wide strap options, although the girls only includes the thin.  



I love that Monte Carlo includes tunic, knee and maxi lengths, each creating a different look. 


The back can either be shirred or uses elastic casings - as I've done with this version. 


Monte Carlo has just the right amount of skirt fullness and is very flattering on all shapes and sizes.


I decided to pair this tunic with leggings for a casual look, perfect for play. Free girls legging pattern available HERE , join the Facebook group HERE for coupon code. 


Since my daughter is tall and slim in build, I sewed a size 2-3 width with 5-6 height. This top is sewn in quilting cotton, although I love rayon, knits and linen for my sized versions. 

Get the Monte Carlo pattern HERE.


A big shout out to Acacia Grey Studio for providing the beautiful hair bow you see paired with Miss A's Monte Carlo tunic. We adore bows, glitter and cats, so this hair accessory was an instant hit! Visit Acacia Grey Studio HERE or IG HERE for custom handmade bows. 

Monte Carlo takes a DIP!



I knew Monte Carlo would make a great base to create a tankini style swimsuit top. Rebecca Page sadly does not have a swim pattern yet, so this pattern was just the ticket!


Unlike ALL of Rebecca Page's patterns, this swimsuit hack doesn't have hidden seams. This is due to the bulk they can create with knit fabric. However, the small pay off equals a beautiful suit! The bodice portion is still fully lined. 


I crossed my straps like the original pattern, although a halter neck tie would also work nicely and allow for some adjustment. 

Having splash in the Swan River


These sweet vintage boy-short style bottoms are not part of the Monte Carlo pattern, however they are available in a separate swimsuit pattern HERE.  


For beautiful, high quality 50+ SPF custom swim fabric, visit SEMS Fabric HERE.


I am about to share with you exactly how I altered the Monte Carlo into a swim top, although I must point out the importance of measuring and periodically trying on your version on yourself or your model


How I did it....so you can too!



You will require the same amount of bodice pieces as the original version, although you will need to cut your skirt to the desired length. I wanted a mid drift length for my daughter, so for a 5-6 height I cut a 4" height skirt by the original pattern's width. 

The back piece will be the only piece you will need to cut with a significantly reduced width. You can use the back elastic cutting chart as a guide, cut your back piece to suit.  

Use a swim lining fabric to line your top. I used 1/4" elastic and if you're doing the same, you may wish to remove some fabric for seam allowances. I opted to leave as is and didn't find there to be a large difference. 


Start by sewing your front main bodice pieces right sides together to your back bodice piece at the sides. Repeat for the lining. See above photo for reference. Use a stretch stitch and keep to the 1/2" seam allowances as per original pattern. 


Sew your straps right sides together and turn, as per original pattern. You may need to shorten your straps, I reduced the length by 1". 


Sew your skirt pieces right sides together at the shorter sides. Finish edges as desired (or not!) 


Baste the bodice main and lining wrong sides facing. I serged (overlocked) although a zig zag stitch is perfectly acceptable. If you are sewing a women's version, I'd highly recommend adding in padded cups for extra support. You may wish to tack them in several places to the lining to hold in place - hold on your body to check appropriate positioning.   


Next step is the add in elastic to the side/back and front of the bodice. The elastic needs to be cut according the measurement of your suit. For the back, measure 1/4" approximately - or whatever the width of your swim elastic is from the top point of the front all the way to 1/4" (approx) to the other point of the front bodice. Reduce this measurement by approx. 2" inches and this is the length your elastic needs to be cut to. For mine, this elastic measurement was 14.5". 

For your 2 front elastic pieces you will need to allow for the 1/2" seam allowance when you add on your skirt - we don't want to fold up elastic into that seam as it will add in too much bulk! So firstly FOLD UP 1/2" of fabric along the bottom edge of your bodice. Along the front angle where the folded 1/2" crosses you front bodice, mark and measure from that point until 1/4" (approx.) from the top point. Repeat for the other side - although the measurements should be the same. From this measurement, minus 1" approx. Cut two pieces of elastic at that size. For my version I cut 2 pieces at 6 3/4". 

Sew on your elastic - pin at the 1/4" from the top points as marked in the previous step and the bottom markings as discussed. It is also a good idea to pin at the centre point for each the front sides and the back piece. This means even stretch when sewn. The top edge of your elastic should line up with the top raw edge of the bodice. Use a stretch stitch or serge, careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew. This will mean the elastic is stretched when sewing. 

After the elastic is sewn on, fold over and stitch down using a zig zag, twin needle or cover stitch. I like to sew closer to the raw edge when using a zig zag as this reduces the chances of rolling or flipping of that edge. Be careful not to stretch your top while sewing!  

Once your elastic has been added, try on yourself or your model, overlapping the front bodice so that the top fits very snugly. It must be quite fitted as you do not want that top flying up when swimming! (Particularly for developed people!) Mark the top and bottom cross over. Take off and baste the bottom as per the cross over marks. Tack the top cross over too - you may even wish to sew along the cross over angle all the way to the bottom for extra support/modesty.    


Unlike the original we are just going to simply sew on that bottom skirt to the top. Gather the skirt as per the original tutorial. Place the top of the skirt, right sides together to the bottom of the bodice, matching the side seams. Sew using a stretch stitch. 


Cut a piece of swim elastic the size of you or your models waist, minus 2" approximately.



Quarter the elastic and the top bodice seam allowance where you sewed the skirt to the bodice. Pin and/or tack your elastic to the top. Sew in your elastic and finish if desired. Press up and top stitch using a stretch stitch


Sew on your straps. There was no pretty or concealed way I could see to do this while maintaining that lovely sharp point we created when adding in our top bodice elastic. I simply used a stretch stitch (you could also hand stitch) to sew the strap internally to the top front points and back - I sewed the back straps at the quarter points of the back bodice (measure your back width and divide by 4, measure in from the edge as per that measurement) stitch on the inside. Trim off excess strap.  

If you made it this far, well done! Your Monte Carlo swim top is now complete! Off to the pool/beach/river with you!


Thank you for stopping by, please don't forget to check out the other amazingly talented women on this blog tour!

Until next time.... 

Happy Sewing!

~ Zoe ~ 


More Inspiration

Please visit all the stops on the Rebecca Page Double Duty Blog Tour for more great inspiration:

Prizes

We will be giving away 7 one-month subscriptions. Each one-month subscription prize contains:
  • Ladies XXS to 5XL Strappy Cami pattern
  • Bonus Ladies XXS to 5XL Comfy Cowl pattern
  • 1 pattern credit to use for a pattern of choice during the month of subscription
  • A further 20% discount on any other patterns (including those already on sale) during the month of subscription
For a chance to win a One-Month Subscription, please comment on the blogs each day and enter the Rafflecopter giveaway

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Oh and one last share.....I'm proud to be part of such a supportive and talented group who sew regularly for Rebecca Page Patterns and this week I had the pleasure of meeting Kiran from Singapore! Kiran is extremely talented and I have admired her for years. We've shared many tester groups, sewing along side each other for some years now, although thousands of kilometers away from each other. It was a meeting I will always treasure, see you in Singapore Kiran!