Thursday, 14 July 2016

Debut Dress - Pattern by Sew Honey Designs PLUS my Big Bow Tutorial!


I quite enjoy discovering new designers, be they be very popular large scale ones or very new upstarting ones. For me personally as an artist & sewer, I care not for the statuses, but more so for the design. Beauty, function, purpose, fit, and sometimes for the challenge! 

So when I had the opportunity to test the Debut Dress by Sew Honey Designs - a new upstarting designer, I gladly answered the call!


The Debut dress is a PDF pattern containing sizes 2T to 12 girls. The illustrations are clear and well thought out. The pattern pieces are also layered - which is a huge bonus!! I'm now often affronted when I need to print off all sizes! Ahhh..... the small luxuries! 


I would rate this dress somewhere between an intermediate or adventurous beginner sew. It has a placket, lined bodice and requires buttonholes. Really, the buttonholes push it beyond adventurous beginner, as it is a quick and straight forward sew, but I also know many still struggle with buttonholes. To avoid buttons, you could choose to pop in snaps......but...... I do have a thing for buttons, so highly recommend them!  

My little greenie, practicing her tree-hug!
The dress has a built-in front sash, which I decided to embellish with a big bow (tutorial below.) The high waist bodice is completely lined, so has a beautiful finish inside and out. It also has a keyhole front feature cut-out - however it can be made without this. The instructions come with options for flutter sleeves or sleeveless. The skirt has two different options also, a plain skirt - as I've done. Or an option to put in a hem-band and piping if desired.




I made my dress completely from a fun quilting cotton. My daughter is a cat fanatic, so when I saw this fun print, I couldn't resist making a dress from it! You could choose some more sophisticated fabric and add an organza, lace or sheer top layer to the skirt to add more pizzazz & glamour. 


The Debut dress really is one of those classic staples. I own another similar pattern by a different designer and it is my go-to dress. I love that it can be made casual or special. 

If you would like to purchase the Debut dress, see Sew Honey Designs Etsy 



 Big Bow Embellishment Tutorial

You may have noticed my version of the Debut dress has a little extra...... the bow! I love adding embellishments to clothing, it is a lovely way to personalize a garment and lift the look and take the garment in a different direction. All seam allowances are 6mm or 1/4 of an inch. 

To re-create the bow, you will need three pieces of fabric cut into the following sizes. 

Bow piece 18cm x  32cm          (imperial:  7 1/8"  x 12.5")
Ribbon 14cm x 32cm               (imperial: 5.5" x 12.5")
Tie 4.2cm x 20cm                     (imperial: 1 3/4" x 8")


Your ribbon piece will need the corners cut off to create the slanted ribbon finish on the bow. You could leave this square, but I think its a nice touch to finish on the angle. You can either fold you ribbon piece in half long ways, fold the corner up and crease, then cut the angle. Or you can measure out the cut. Find the center of the fabric on the short end as shown, mark it. Then on your long edge, measure in 7cm (2 3/4") and mark. Take a ruler and mark the diagonal line, repeat for the other 3 corners. Cut your lines and you should then have a piece similar to the above photo.


We are now going to make the main bow piece. If your using a lightweight fabric, I highly recommend adding some iron-on interfacing to give the fabric some rigidity - it will help your bow keep its shape. 

Take your bow piece of fabric and fold it long ways - right sides together. Sew along the short edge only and LEAVE a GAP halfway! This is very important, as you will pull your bow the right way through using this gap.  


Open up your fabric so the seam you have just sewn is now central. Sew the two remaining edges. Press your center seam open (the first seam with the gap in it.) Clip the corners.


Pull your bow piece the right way using the hole in the center seam. Use a chop stick to poke out your edges and press.You may now choose to hand stitch your hole in the bow or you can simply leave as is (it will be tucked in and hidden once your bow is assembled.)


Next take your ribbon piece. Fold in half, right sides together and so your angled cuts meet neatly. Sew around the edges, again leaving a gap to pull your fabric the right way through. Pull your fabric the right way through and press. Hand stitch hole closed if desired.


To complete the tie piece, fold in half - right sides together - so the longest piece is folded onto itself, stitch the two long edges, leaving the small edge to pull the piece the right way through. You should now have three pieces to create the bow (as shown above.)


Assembly time! Take your bow piece and concertina it - you could use little or big folds to create different effects, its really a personal look, so play around with it! Pinch it in the middle, along with your ribbon piece as shown above.


Take your tie piece and place it around the middle. You may have excess and you can just tuck this under the tie at the back. Make sure your neat end covers your raw edge. Trim the tie piece if needed - you don't want it to be too thick and bulky as it needs to be hand sewn together. Pin and then hand sew. Keep your stitching to the back and along the sides at the back. Make sure you do sew all pieces together as the ribbon could slip out if you do not stitch it in place. This is a job of discretion.   


Once the bow is stitched together, hand stitch your bow onto your dress or top. It looks very nice just to the side of the built in sash on the Debut dress, but would make a fabulous embellishment to any garment you desire! Even get out your hot glue gun and glue onto a blank large hair clip to make a gorgeous hair bow! 


Taaa daah!



We love the dress and bow................



........................THIS much!


#debutdress 



Sunday, 10 July 2016

Pathfinder Vest - Pattern by Big Little Patterns


I had discovered Big Little patterns not so long ago.... see my Big Little Animal Hood post HERE. I loved creating a unique and useful garment and was very pleased when I was given the opportunity to test the latest Big Little pattern.... The Pathfinder Vest!


The PDF pattern is a unisex vest pattern that includes sizes 1 - 12 (childrens size). I would rate this pattern suitable for advanced beginners, however the tutorial is very thorough and a beginner sewer could certainly have a crack (aussie for "have a go.") 


With 70 different possible combinations you can create a new look time and time again and be very satisfied with each outcome!


This vest that I made for my 2 year old is the standard length, with rounded pockets, flutter sleeves, button loops and pixie hood options. 


I quite enjoy embellishing my creations - and the pockets were an optimal spot to add some lace and ribbon. 


I also LOVE buttons (you will always hear me bang on (rave) about my button obsession) and this was of course an excellent garment to feature (enable) my button addiction ...... collection...... did I mention I love buttons?!? 


The next vest I made was for my 5 year old and I decided I'd choose the rounded hood instead of the more feminine pixie option. I kept the length standard. 


I managed to pick up this "Frodo" green pinwale corduroy for $4(au) a meter on clearance. So decided on the spot that my boys would go hobbit style and own a range of these vests in this special colour! 


Each vest, including my daughter's, was lined in cosy fleece. Fleece is very easy to work with and is very warm and budget friendly. 


The pattern proves a quick sew and I managed to sew three in one evening! I was interested and a little annoyed in the way you must pull the garment through. Like with any fully lined garment, there is always a gap where you pull the item the right way through. I can only advise you take your time. Sew one sleeve first, then only leave a gap on the remaining side (this will become clear when you read your copy and get to this step.) A necessary evil with any fully lined garment! Don't let it put you off! 


This vest was made for my oldest and I was keen to make the basic waistcoat. I added the standard pockets and chose to have the vest close using buttonholes instead of loops. 


The neck line is the 'v' neck option, as opposed to the rounded, or the high neck options required for the hooded versions. You could make this waistcoat as fancy as you wanted or casual like mine.

I

The fourth vest I made - again for my oldest - I decided to chose the longer length and rounded back (kidney warming variation!) 


He was rather impressed with his little brother's rounded hood and asked to have a hood on this vest too. I found the rounded hood to be a perfect size and shape and certainly not difficult to create.


Pockets again, as children rather like to store their little treasures.


While the pockets aren't designed to warm hands, you can see they are just large enough to do so! This vest also boasts the sharp or square finish on the front bottom flaps (the above vests have the rounded finish.)


There are many directions you can take this vest in, including and not limited to changing out the straight back for a pleated back, collar, *petal closure* (only available for Big Little newsletter subscribers - sign up now!) Or if you own the wild things coat pattern, the hoods are interchangeable! (I have plans for a little pony!)

This pattern is highly versatile & excellent value. I love the layering of the pattern pieces and the detailed instructions. I love that this one pattern enables me to make garments for each of my children of various sizes and gender. 

To purchase the pattern visit Big Little Shop or to follow Big Little's blog please visit BL HERE

To get all the current discount codes and latest on Big Little patterns, join the Facebook pattern group




Sunday, 3 July 2016

Classic Maillot - PDF Pattern by Call Ajaire - Pattern Review

 
First up, let me say that I've NEVER sewn a swimsuit! So despite the anxiety, it was time to take up the challenge! I had the pleasure of testing this pattern for Call Ajaire designs.  

 
I'm pleased to say while sewing with spandex and elastic can be tricky, it is possible to get an adorable suit - even without the aide of an overlocker (serger.) This pattern also comes with loads of hints and tips and handy diagrams, so at no point did I feel I was becoming overwhelmed.

 
"What is a Maillot did I hear you ask?" I too also wondered! But this suit is so named for the designer version of a one piece womens' swimsuit, a maillot! Kind of like champagne! So where the rest of the world calls their champagne "sparkling wine" the French can call it champagne... Maillot.... the champagne of the swimsuit world! And I must say, you will not be disappointed with this beautiful, classy style of swimsuit! True to its namesake.

 
I tested version "D", but there are many variations - eight in fact - including a tankini option!! So you can make a completely different look eight times over!

 
This PDF pattern comes with sizes newborn to 12 girls and has fantastic hints on how to achieve a custom fit swimsuit. For example, my 2yr old, who is rather petite, required a 12 month size for the width of the suit, but a 2T length. It was a perfect fit!!


This modest suit has full nappy/diaper coverage for the littlies, but covers everything nicely for the bigger girls too. There is not enough said about the beauty of classic designs that let children be children and not styled into mini adults.  


I say to you if your considering your first swimsuit sew, that the Classic Maillot is a fabulous choice. Start with view "A" - the simplest view and go from there! I would rate it as an intermediate sew - as generally knits can be a challenge and more so a swimsuit. Make sure you have the right needle in your machine, a ballpoint or even a sharps needle. Use the lightening zig-zag stitch which is specifically for knits and stretch fabric. Ajaire gives plenty of hints and tips, but also a fellow blogger who tested the Maillot, Gina from "Penny Sew Vintage" has written a wonderful blog post on this suit and has given lots of helpful hints and plenty of photos of her actual sew. Visit "Penny Sew Vintage" HERE

 
I love this pattern and actually feel rather proud of my sew! It was a challenge, but well worth it and I'll never buy my daughter another ill-fitting store bought swimsuit again!! I guarantee you too will be beaming with joy at your results!
 
If you would like to buy the pattern, please click HERE
 
Or to learn more about Call Ajaire designs, please click HERE
 

Wednesday, 29 June 2016

Amsterdam Coat & Twirltastic Tutu - Mummykins & Me - Pattern Review


I've been meaning to sit down and blog for a while now.... but would you believe three children and all the actual sewing, tend to get in the way of writing?!
 
Well, here I am and I'm excited to show you another two patterns from Mummykins & Me.



This first pattern is a super fun ribbon trimmed tutu - the Twirltastic Tutu. The PDF pattern comes with sizes newborn to 12 girls included.

 
This is a fabulous beginners pattern and if you choose to leave off the ribbon, it is completely sew free!! That's right..... NO SEWING MACHINE NEEDED!

 
I found the trickiest part to this pattern was actually fighting all that tulle to sew on the ribbon trims. It would be very difficult to tie on the tulle with the ribbon sewn on before hand, so unfortunately its one of those tedious jobs that must be done once assembled.

 
I made a 2T version for my daughter, with two layers of tulle. I actually don't feel it was needed for this size tutu and would recommend trying a single layer first and assessing.

 
This was a very fun project and I thoroughly enjoyed making it and seeing my daughter's face light up when she tried it on!

 
The detailed instructions provide directions for making this tutu from tulle on the roll, but also provide cutting charts if your buying your tulle off the bolt too. My top tip would be to measure your intended wearer and cut the tulle lengths to size.

 
Now, here's the best part........ this pattern can be yours completely FREE if you join us over at the Mummykins & Me pattern group!!! Find the group HERE
 
Alternatively, you can find out more, or purchase the pattern directly from Mummykins & Me HERE
 




Amsterdam All-Weather Coat


 
It is now winter here in Australia and it probably seems completely at contrast from other places in the world, but there is always room in your child's wardrobe for a beautiful coat.... and this coat, just like it's name implies, can be made for all seasons.


This extremely well written PDF pattern by Mummykins & Me is a fully lined, unisex coat, which includes sizes newborn to 12 kids. But not only that......it has a matching MUMMY version too!!

 
Military inspired, hooded, lined, optional pockets and faux wrist tabs and beautiful feature button loops.....this really is a statement piece.

 
I made my version in wool & lined it with quilters cotton. However, this pattern makes a perfect lightweight coat or rain-jacket.

 
This gorgeous print is one by designer Jennifer Paganelli. It really added a stunning "something" to the coat, while remaining un-busy on the outside.

 
This coat is an intermediate sew. Its a time consuming project that I highly recommend you take your time on.....I was personally up until 2am the evening I started mine....as I was so excited to pull it the right way through & reveal the completed masterpiece!  

 
I loved sewing this pattern...... it was like constructing an artwork and I revelled in each moment. It was truly amazing to start out with flat fabrics, then cut and sew something so involved and beautiful......there is something amazing about creating clothing and I have a great appreciation for those who design it. You will not be disappointed with the Amsterdam Coat, in fact you will be so proud of yourself and so pleased with the result, you will want to make another one as soon as possible......after a coffee or 10!
 
If you would like to find out more about the Amsterdam coat or purchase the pattern, click HERE